Boussieres to Baume-les-Dames

For most of our trip the terrain has been fairly flat, but in the last day or so it has become quite hilly.  Mostly flat along the river, but with significant wooded hills beyond, and very scenic.

A great stage under sunny skies today, 57 km total.  After buying our breakfast at a bakery in Boussieres we headed downhill toward the river, but on the wrong road so we added a few km and some hills before we finally ended up on the correct path.  At Thoraise we stopped to eat our breakfast by this interesting spot where the canal passes through a tunnel.

Our route today was mostly on bike paths following the Doubs River, or along a canal.  

As we entered Besancon we saw this sign for the Via Francigena (pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome).

Besancon is a largish city built around a bend in the river.  There is a huge citadel at the top, and a tunnel under the city for the canal with a small path at the side for bikes and pedestrians.  Very dark and narrow, with two-way traffic, so an exciting ride.

Citadel

Early afternoon we stopped for lunch at a little restaurant right off the cycle path.

Every few km there are rest areas along the path, and frequently fellow cycle tourers.

We arrived at our hotel in Baume-les-Dames at the same time as two other pairs of cyclists.  It's in a 16th century house; we somehow ended up with a large apartment (bedroom and large living/dining room) overlooking the village's central square.

Inner courtyard of the hotel

Very gourmet dinner at Le Charleston restaurant in town.  We had great conversation with the French folks and a Swiss couple at adjacent tables.

Saint-Jean-de-Losne to Boussieres

After a couple of days riding without any significant knee pain, today we set out for a longer stage.  Good places to stay along the bike route are not plentiful: we had a choice of a short day or a more challenging one (we ended up with 70 km for the day).  After days of clouds and intermittent rain today was sunny with temps in the 70s.  Perfect riding conditions.  We left Harry Potter world behind, stopped at a bakery for a bit of breakfast (plus a few pastries to carry on the bike) and off we went.  

Almost the entire ride was along nice bike paths following the Saone or Doubs Rivers, or along canals.  The exception was a steep climb out of Orchamps, followed by a matching steep descent.

In Dole we stopped at a park where a canal flows into the Doubs.  We also stopped to check out some of the amazing barge homes which are tied up along the canals.

Near the village of Rochefort-sur-Nenon we stopped at a park and watched a sport climber on the cliffs.  Belayer is on the grass; the climber is just topping out on the cliff above.

We had reserved a room in the village of Boussieres.  We had not realized that the lodging was 80 meters of steep climbing from the river-side cycle path.  We grunted it out, and were rewarded with the lovely Gites de l'Oree du Bois.  The owner is most hospitable.  She brought us snacks and showed us some of the beautiful artwork around the accommodation.  Both the wolf and dragon are symbols from local legends of the village.